CFLs : Bomb Squad Called

Jacksonville City Hall Evacuated, Could it be a Bomb?

by First Coast News

CFL Bomb Squad

JACKSONVILLE, Fla. — The suspicious package that led to the evacuation of City Hall this morning actually contained CFLs, energy efficient light bulbs. More than 300 people were evacuated as the x-ray of the package caught someone’s eye in the mail room.

“When we saw the image, we were concerned too,” said Jacksonville Sheriff’s Office Director John Hartley. “It was a non-descript cardboard box, about eight inches by six inches by six inches.”

After evaluating the situation, the bomb squad decided to take the box to a remote facility for further examination. “We have that ability to do things (detonate a package) on site, but we wanted to get it out of the downtown area,” Hartley said.

As the situation was unfolding this morning, Sheriff John Rutherford said the box would be detonated, not enough to destroy it, but enough to separate the pieces.

What was in the bomb box?

Bomb Those CFLs

However, once JSO had the box contained, they used a more detailed examination device to determine it was simply filled with CFLs light bulbs.

Hartley said the box was found to be from a reputable vendor and was delivered by FedEx, so it was not detonated; the CFLs were brought back unharmed.

Hartley and Mayor Alvin Brown reiterated that everyone involved did the right thing, and the evacuation was standard procedure in that situation.

Brown said both this morning and this afternoon that employee safety was the most important thing. Streets surrounding the area which were immediately closed; they reopened around 12:30 p.m. and City Hall was opened shortly after that, once a detailed search of the building was completed.

The JSO bomb squad was called to the scene following the initial call at 8:42 this morning when the suspicious package was discovered going through an mail room X-ray machine, according to JSO spokesperson Melissa Bujeda.

Rutherford confirmed the package was found in the mail room. Councilman Doyle Carter said he learned the package was addressed to City Council.

Mayor Alvin Brown was not in the building at the time; he immediately went to the Emergency Operations Center. “We are following the normal plans and procedures,” he said of the evacuation and police activity.

City Hall was the only building evacuated because of the suspicious package of exploding CFLs.

Power Bill: Control Your Power Consumption

Every upgrade you consider for your home can be verified on your Power Bill.

by Don Ames

Whether you realize it or not, you get an up-date on the energy efficiency of your home every month. It comes in the mail and it’s called a Power Bill. Unfortunately, most people seem to look at the amount due, take a deep breath, and then write a check.

( Scroll down to watch my screen cast. I think it’s one of my better ones even if I did have to hurry near the end. )

At some homes that I visit for an energy audit, they cannot even produce one Power Bill. I would like to have at least one Power Bill available so I can see how the home has been performing.

Power Bill and Power Savings

There is a wealth of information on a power bill and I would like to take this article and provide a few tips on how you can use your Power Bill to support your search for energy savings.

Here is a list of some energy users in your home and how much power you can expect them to use.

Cost per Hour:

  • Heat pump or central air,  15,000 watts,   $1.50
  • Water heater or clothes drier,  4,000 watts,   40 cents
  • Water pump,  3,000 watts,   30 cents
  • Space heater,  1,500 watts,   15 cents
  • Hair drier,  1,200 watts,   12 cents
  • Electric range burner,  1,000 watts,   10 cents
  • Refrigerator,  1,000 watts,   10 cents
  • Computer and monitor,  400 watts,   4 cents
  • Light bulb,  60 watts,   0.6 cents

This table assumes that a kilowatt-hour of electricity costs 10 cents, which is an average rate depending on your location.

The Energy Star Website does a great job so I am going to borrow a few paragraphs from them about energy consumption and your Power Bill.

If your house has electric heat, then the middle of winter is a time when you are going to use a lot of power. A heat pump might run 10 to 15 hours a day and really pump up your Power Bill.  At $1.50 an hour, that’s $15 to $22 per day. Over the course of a month, that’s several hundred dollars worth of electricity. The same applies in the summer if you use the air conditioner a lot.

Water heating uses a good bit of power as well. When you take a shower or run a load of clothes in the washer, the electric water heater might run for an hour reheating the water in the tank. That’s 40 cents. A typical household can burn several dollars a day heating water. Because we don’t normally think of it this way, it is funny to consider that every shower you take costs 40 cents! When you add in the cost of washing and drying the towels (every load of clothes that you run might cost $1 to $2 for washing and drying), plus the soap and shampoo, it can cost nearly a buck to take a shower!

Refrigeration is another big power drain and a major boost to your Power Bill because the refrigerator can easily run for 10 hours a day. That’s about $1 per day to keep the milk cold. If you leave the computer or TV on all day, it can add up to $1 per day as well.

Then we get to light bulbs. At 0.6 cents per hour, it doesn’t seem like much. However, many fixtures contain two or more bulbs, and it is easy to leave several fixtures on. If 10 bulbs are burning, that’s 6 cents an hour. If they burn for six hours a day, that’s 36 cents per day for lighting. Multiply that by 30 days in a month, and it’s $10 per month for photons.

Article continues below after this screen cast.

Heat & Cool Efficiently

As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home’s heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system.

Change your air filter regularly.

  • Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.

Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly.

  • Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort.

Install a programmable thermostat.

Power Bill Help

  • A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $180 every year on your Power bill.

Seal your heating and cooling ducts.

  • Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.

Consider installing Energy Star qualified heating and cooling equipment.

  • If your HVAC equipment is more than 10 years old or not keeping your house comfortable, have it evaluated by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with a unit that has earned the energy star. Depending on where you live, replacing your old heating and cooling equipment with energy star qualified equipment can cut your annual Power Bill by nearly $200.

Every upgrade you consider for your home can be verified on your Power Bill. Take time to read your Power Bill and let it guide you in your power saving efforts.

Thanks for stopping by Detect Energy, come back soon, but I won’t leave the light on for you…

Today’s Power Trip – Washers, Dryers and Energy Audit

The Lady-of-the-house would like a new energy efficient washing machine

by Don Ames

Today’s Energy Savings is my way of sharing my day-to-day adventures in home energy savings, I am a Home Energy Auditor and I enjoy sharing my day with you. Here on Detect Energy, I hope you will find both the inspiration and the information that you need to conserve power and lower your energy bills.

My e-Newsletter, the Energy Spy Insider, hits the emailing air waves about three times a week and brings you the latest news, tips, methods, and stories concerning home energy savings, energy conservation, energy politics, and renewable energy. If you found this “Power Trip” and have not signed-up for my eNewsletter, just look around, there is a sign-up form here somewhere, just add your email address and hit submit.

I really appreciate your comments and ideas, so be sure and leave me some of your wisdom at the end of every article. Follow me on twitter and facebook @detectenergy.

I would like to share with you the fact that Detect Energy will be up-grading the old website once again. Visitors will still be able to access all the great “energy saving” articles, but, in addition, there will be a wealth of “How To” checklists and ebooks to choose from. Perhaps you would be interested in being a contributing writer – just let me know.

The Lady-of-the-house and clean dry clothes

I always hate running into an old washer and dryer in a home I am performing an energy audit on. Particularly if the lady-of-the-house is looking over my shoulder. She probably already knows that appliances can be up-graded and energy can be saved, but what she doesn’t understand is that washing machines have increased there energy efficiency with design and electronic control and dryers have not.

The Lady-of-the-house would like a new energy efficient washing machine and a dryer to match. Problem is – I can justify the washing machine because of increased power savings, but not the dryer.

Let’s talk about the washing machine.

Three factors make today’s washing machines more energy efficient than the ones Grandma used in her basement.

  • They use less water so there is a cost savings and water conservation advantage.
  • They wash better using cold water so there is a savings concerning using less hot water.
  • They spin the clothes out like a son-of-a-gun so there is less work for the dryer to do.

Let’s talk about the clothes dryer.

Two factors make today’s dryers ( or yesterday’s ) perform with the utmost energy efficiency.

  • Proper installation. Get the vent right or your dryer is a loser.
  • Proper maintenance. Keep the screen clean and the vent open or your a loser.

As I stand in front of the old brown washing machine and dryer, a matched set, I feel the old Christmas presence coming from the Lady standing behind my left shoulder. She wants new appliances, both the washer and dryer. And I don’t blame her. Who would want to place the clothes in an old brown Edsel to dry after they came out of a beautiful white Lincoln Continental. Clothes that come out of an old Edsel simply can not provide the same confident business atmosphere that a person needs to carry them throughout the day.

I gently explain that the dryer is what it is – a heating coil with a vent. Keep the vent open and it doesn’t matter if it’s a brown Packard or a Porsch.

Thinking at the top of her game, the Lady explains that the dryers timer is broken and sometimes she forgets to turn the dryer off and the clothes end up drying for hours. Well now, that certainly is not energy efficient. After all, the dryer can be the number two energy user in a home right behind the old furnace. It is also a concern for health and safety since an overheated dryer and a clogged dryer vent can lead to a dryer fire.

I guess I should mention one more item that can provide additional energy efficiency with today’s dryers:

The moisture sensor

Actually, the moisture sensor is a bit of an irritation at my own house. No matter how many times I explain that the dryer has the ability to shut itself off when the clothes are dry, my Lady-of-the-House just can not be friends with this advanced technology. She remains dedicated to the straight forward timer – 60 minutes of drying time, no-matter-what.

The best washing machine.

Here’s my tips for getting the best washing machine and the most energy efficient.

  • Check the energy star ratings at www.energystar.org and notice the (EF) energy factor listing for the various energy star rated washing machines. The higher the energy factor the more efficient the appliance.
  • Just get a washing machine. For energy efficiency sake, you don’t need steam or any of the other gadgets.
  • Consider a top loading machine, just because it’s front loading does not mean it’s more energy efficient or that it will get your clothes cleaner.

The best clothes dryer.

These factors determine the best in a clothes dryer:

  • Look for a dryer with a moisture sensor and then for heavens sake, use it.
  • Clean the dryer vent screen before every load. Today’s machines will not start unless the vent has at least been removed and replaced.
  • Minimize obstructions in the vent system. The best dryer vent is smooth inside, short in length, and has no 90 degree elbows.
  • Install a vent hood that does not restrict the flow of air. Too many times the vent hood at the outside wall chokes off the flow of air. A vent hood that has blackberry vines growing up through it simply can not perform as intended.

And, of course, the very best energy efficient dryer is a solar clothes dryer. All it takes is a tight cord or two and a few clothes pins. You think Downy does a great job of getting your clothes ready to wear, just wait until you pull that T-shirt over your head that has been dried in the fresh Montana countryside. Now that’s living and that’s energy efficient.

“Guess What’s in the Picture”

One thing you can count on, it has something to do with energy efficiency.

Thank you for stopping by Detect Energy, hope you come back soon, but I won’t leave the light on for you…

Gas Furnace is Efficient Enough

Today's Power Trip - Tough Question About An 80% Efficient Gas Furnace

by Don Ames

gas furnace

Today’s Power Trip is my way of sharing my day-to-day adventures in home energy savings, I am a Home Energy Auditor and I enjoy sharing my day with you. Here on Detect Energy, I hope you will find both the inspiration and the information that you need to conserve power and lower your energy bills.

My e-Newsletter, the Energy Spy Insider, hits the emailing air waves about three times a week and brings you the latest news, tips, methods, and stories concerning home energy savings, energy conservation, energy politics, and renewable energy. If you found this “Power Trip” and have not signed-up for my eNewsletter, just look around, there is a sign-up form here somewhere, just add your email address and hit submit.

I really appreciate your comments and ideas, so be sure and leave me some of your wisdom at the end of every article. Follow me on twitter and facebook @detectenergy.

I would like to share with you the fact that Detect Energy will be up-grading the old website once again. Visitors will still be able to access all the great “energy saving” articles, but, in addition, there will be a wealth of “How To” checklists and ebooks to choose from. Perhaps you would be interested in being a contributing writer – just let me know.

Tough Question About An 80% Efficient Gas Furnace

The homeowners were right up front about their desires and concerns. Listed right on the application was the first piority, up-grade the gas furnace and replace the sliding glass door. Sounded good to me, definately a couple things that can lead to saving energy and lower power bills.

Wonder what it would be like to live next to a High School. Across the backyard fence from this house was a baseball field and I can imagine that during baseball season the sounds of baseball are pretty loud. Should be OK, I like baseball and I doubt if the practice field is used after dark.

I have a couple young kids that live across the fence from my house and I am forever picking up and throwing wiffle balls back over the fence.

A newer 80% efficient gas furnace is a really good appliance. Many years of great service with warm nights can be expected from these work horses. By newer, I mean 1990 and newer. I would replace an older 70% furnace anytime, no question.

The question facing me with this home and addressing energy consumption is whether or not the funds available are best spent on up-grading the furnace to a 95% efficient model. Dispite the homeowners initial request for a new furnace, I think it’s wise to look over the house a little more before deciding.

On further inspection:

  •  I find the underfloor crawl space has been used for a kitty and skunk club house. There is insualtion hanging down and missing insulation from the heating duct plenum
  • The dishwasher is not energy star by a mile and the homeowner says it has not worked correctly for over a year.
  • The patio glass sliding door takes two hands and a load grunt to open. The lower track and the wheels under the sliding section have worn to the place that the door should be called a stationary door instead of a slider. When this happens, misaliagnment occurs and the weatherstripping gets damaged and the door leaks air like an hose.

Since the furnace is working well and has been serviced and cared for, I think we will spend some money on the other items before considering the furnace.

Can a Dripping Faucet be Considered Energy In-efficient?

Traveling on down the road, my travels today lead me into a very nice but older manufacture home park. By very nice, I mean the landscaping was kept up and the homes had fresh paint for the most part.

This homeowner had a new heat pump installed and a new roof applied about two years earlier. It is hot out today, but the home was a very pleasent cool inside. I know already that the heating system is up in shape, as I remember, even the ducts were sealed at the same time as the heat pump was installed.

Windows are double paned and vinyl framed, which means they are an up-grade over the original windows. I suspect the original windows were metal framed single glass units.

The homeowner leads me back to the house bath and points at the tub and says, “I dump that about 4 times a day.”

An old 2 gallon ice cream container sat under the leaking water spout. Catching the water in a container allows the measurement of how bad the drip is and it keeps the constant leaking water from staining the tub.

Well, eight gallons a day is about half a shower. Not enough to break the bank but too much to allow to continue. The homeowner says the park used to pay for the water service, but just recently installed a water meter for each home so now everybody pays for their own water usage. Puts a whole new meaning to a dripping faucet.

Guess What’s in the Picture

My web designer up-loaded the latest version of WordPress and then disappeared on me. Needless to say, wordpress is having some issues. I can not add pictures or other media to my articles, so “guess What’s in the Picture” is on hold for a few days.

I enjoy doing them for you, so I am looking forward to getting wordpress fixed.

Anyway, thanks for stopping by Detect Energy, hope to see you again real soon, but I won’t leave the light on for you…

Energy Improvements

Energy Improvements Have Reduced Our Energy Use

by Robert Farbe, www.energyconsciousconsultant.com

energy improvements

Energy improvements have reduced our energy use per household by almost one-third. But I think because of gadget improvements, homeowners tend to use more power. http://bit.ly/pJK1jx

Energy consumption by household appliances nearly doubled between 1978 and 2005. Many transformers and appliances suck power if left plugged in all the time. Look at your cell phone charger or your laptop charger.

What about your TV? When you press your remote, your TV will come on instantly. That’s because that TV is always on, as long as it is plugged in. By unplugging that TV – and other gadgets – you save energy and you save money.

Are you using the latest gadgets? How can you save energy. To read Roberts complete article http://bit.ly/pJK1jx

To energy efficiency,

Robert Farbe

PS You can read more information on the Residential Energy Consumption Survey.

http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=9kag_&m=JglUiYQdvoe3Fy&b=dSJfLLLfM3Jec5CnRsBLIg

Dishwasher Reviews

Dishwasher Reviews and The Dishwasher Paradox

by Dale Y the Green Guy

In nearly every different chore that is done around the house, doing something by hand saves energy. That’s a fact that cannot be disputed. I mean, let’s face it. Every time we turn on a machine to do a chore, we are burning up electricity. Burning electricity means using electricity, and using electricity is using energy. Of course this doesn’t necessarily apply to sustainable electricity from windmills, solar power, hydro or what have you, but for most of us living off the grid, the less we use the better it is.

Now, you would think this works the same for a dishwasher. You turn it on and it uses electricity, then it uses water to clean dishes with. That appears to be a double whammy, using water and electricity at the same time. Right there on the face of it, it appears to be a far less efficient way to do dishes than doing them by hand. However, the fact of the matter is, a dishwasher can be just as energy efficient, if not more so, then doing dishes by hand. That’s the dishwasher paradox.

No matter how you do dishes, you are going to be using water. By hand you will fill up a tub with soapy water, place the dishes into the tub, wash and then rinse them. Standard operating procedure. By dishwasher, you load the machine up, set the cycle, turn on the switch and walk away until they get unloaded.

The facts about doing dishes by hand say that we use an average of 37% more water than a dishwasher does, and that’s hot water use. Hot water comes from a water heater that uses energy to heat it up. Most of us have giant hot water tanks that hold dozens of gallons of water, so that when some of it is removed, the entire tank must be heated up again as cold water flows in to replace it.

A dishwasher uses high pressure jets to clean dishes, and they use as little hot water as needed to get the job done. An Energy Star dishwasher is even more efficient at this task. The electricity used to power the pump is offset by the smaller amount of hot water used in the entire cycle. The result? A machine wins hands down!

In almost every other case when it comes down to human vs machine, a human will be more efficient because the only energy a body uses is from consuming sustainable food. But in this case, dishwashers have become so efficient through water use that a human can’t compare.

Obviously, instant on water heaters will sway this result as will using only cold water to wash dishes. But even using cold water, you will still be wasting more water than a dishwasher does.

So next time you are in the market for an energy saving device, think dishwasher. Better still, think Energy Star dishwasher. You’ll come out ahead by using less electricity and water, and you’ll have more time to do what you want to do instead of washing dishes.

Home Energy Audit

by Don Ames

Home Energy Audit

Energy Audits: What Homeowners Need to Know

A home energy audit can help you save money and energy. Here’s what experienced energy rater Ken Riead had to say about the process.

Interview by Megan Phelps,  motherearthnews.com

An energy audit can help you determine which home energy improvements are worthwhile for your home. For example, many people consider installing more energy efficient windows, but adding insulation to your home is likely to save more money and energy. Finding ways to heat and cool your home more efficiently has many benefits. To name a few: Home energy improvements can lower your heating and cooling bills, reduce your carbon footprint and make your home more comfortable. What’s not to love?

But while some energy improvements are cheap (changing your furnace filter), others are expensive (buying a new furnace). And although some of those larger projects may end up saving a lot of energy and money, it’s not always easy to know whether a specific project makes sense for your home, or which projects you should tackle first.

This is where an energy audit comes into the picture. An energy audit can help you decide which projects should be your highest priority, and which ones you might not want to do at all. So what’s involved in a home energy audit, and does it make sense for you?

To answer these questions and more, I talked to a home energy rater, Ken Riead of Hathmore Technologies, LLC in Independence, Mo. Riead does energy audits and has trained other energy auditors and energy raters.

So who should have an energy audit?

Everyone. In fact, new houses typically aren’t as well constructed as the older houses. They can leak more air, causing health and comfort problems, and the quality of the wood and other building components can be poor. Insulation is often very sloppily installed and, in many cases, missing entirely. Most homeowners aren’t knowledgeable about how to look for these problems and how to properly correct them if they find them. Actually, the same problems found in single family homes also occur in duplexes, townhomes, condominiums, apartments and other forms of residences. However, to keep things simple I will use the terms “home” or “residence” from here on.

I would submit that unless your home is an Energy Star home or has undergone energy testing you will likely experience high energy bills and comfort problems, so it is well worth doing an energy audit. Most electric utilities offer some sort of online survey or audit at little or no cost. That’s where most people start.

What do those online surveys typically involve?

You enter some basics about your home. If you say “well, I think my walls have R-7 insulation,” then the online audit’s automatic response will be something like “OK, you should add more insulation to your walls.” If you state, “My refrigerator is 20 years old,” it will suggest, “Time for a new refrigerator and we at your local power company recommend Energy Star appliances.”

But you have to consider here the old axiom that it’s worth what you pay for it. If energy audits are free, they’re probably not going to be all that helpful. There’s really no substitute for someone visiting your home and verifying the condition of everything. Say your furnace is old, but it’s still just fine. The online software won’t know that. For most people, the next step is to call someone to come out and physically inspect their particular building and equipment.

Don’t some utilities help with the cost of on-site energy audits?

Yes, it used to be they were required to offer energy audits. You called them up, they’d send someone out, either for free or for a nominal fee. But ever since deregulation came along, most utilities shed a lot of these programs under the heading “we have to get lean and mean to survive.” Now some of them are coming back.

What’s happening is that if utilities want to raise their rates they normally need to have an offsetting benefit. If you want more money from rate payers, then what are you going to give in return? So utilities are offering rebates for high efficiency equipment, or they’ll offer help paying for an energy audit.

What’s the typical cost of an energy audit?

Well, as previously mentioned, they can be found free online, or offered through your utility. Of course it varies all over the country, but typically if you want someone to do a walk-through audit you probably are going to pay at least a couple hundred dollars. In the old days, you could probably get it for less than a hundred. But I think with gas prices and everything, you’re probably talking $200 minimum to get someone to come out.

Thorough, professional energy audits run $500 and up for a home. You’re probably looking at $650 or $700 for an energy rating (which can be used to obtain an Energy Improvement Mortgage), and on up.

What should I look for in an energy auditor?

Unfortunately, there has been such a large spectrum of tests and surveys that have been called an “energy audit” that the term has become more generic than specific. So, for a person to get a “quality” energy audit through a skilled energy auditor they will have to conduct a little research and be a little picky.

Ask first whether your local energy auditors are trained and, if so, where did they get their training? This question is important because the quality of the training will help define the quality of the auditor and the audit itself. One national organization offering quality training is the Building Performance Institute or BPI. BPI-trained energy auditors must pass an online nationally administered test and also perform one or more field tests before they are considered qualified.

Another national organization involved in training and verification of energy auditors is the Residential Energy Services Network or RESNET. RESNET and BPI work closely together to help ensure the quality and consistency of training of energy auditors and energy raters. Both BPI and RESNET maintain updated lists of trained energy auditors that can be accessed online by anyone.

BPI recommends that the combustion flue gases of open-flame devices be tested for combustion by-products, such as carbon monoxide. Since carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless and invisible gas, most people are unaware of its presence unless they begin to experience flu-like symptoms. Testing for carbon monoxide and other gases is always a good idea, especially if you are considering making the residence more airtight.

More advanced energy audits also involve the use of an infrared (IR) camera, also known as a thermal imaging camera. (See Image Gallery.) IR cameras can “see” behind walls if there is a sizable temperature difference between the inside air and the outside ambient air. They can determine if there is missing insulation, significant air leakage areas and can even locate water leaks and moisture behind solid surfaces. This feature is especially helpful in locating water sources that might be contributing to mold, mildew and other fungus growth. The combination of a blower door and IR camera makes it possible to detect problems that otherwise could have gone unnoticed for long periods of time, perhaps not becoming evident until there was serious damage to the structure or significant mold growth.

Other testing devices that an energy auditor might employ include a flow hood for measuring air flow through supply/return registers, exhaust fans and other devices; a digital thermometer for determining air, flue or water temperatures; a sling psychrometer for determining relative humidity; and a mold and/or radon test kit.

Are all of these tests included in most energy audits?

Most energy audits do not involve all the equipment I have mentioned because the more tests involved in an energy audit, the higher the fee. You also will probably find that the more established companies with highly trained staff will, as a rule, charge a higher fee than a beginning auditor. If you have decided that you would like to have an audit performed on your residence, I suggest that you contact your local energy providers to see if they offer rebates or incentives to offset some or all of the cost of the audit. I also predict that the federal stimulus money might be structured to provide some relief toward the cost of energy audits and, possibly, energy improvements. There are federal tax credits available for residential energy improvements. You can learn more about those on the Energy Star website.

Also, many local and regional energy providers, such as your electric utility or fossil fuel provider, maintain a list of qualified energy auditors. Other sources of information about energy auditors can be your local nonprofit builders, such as Habitat for Humanity, and your local agencies that provide weatherization services or energy assistance. Once you have assembled your list of trained and qualified energy auditors in your area, it is very advisable to ask them for references (past clients) and proof of insurance. A good auditor will produce happy clients, so don’t skip this step.

What’s involved in an energy audit?

A quality energy audit should always include testing of combustion appliances and combustible gas lines. Those air leaks may have actually been keeping you alive and sealing them up without knowing if your appliances are spilling combustion products could be disastrous. Your audit will also involve measuring the residence and noting the condition of all external features, including the doors and windows. The type, age and expected efficiency of the heating/cooling/water heating equipment should be noted. Other large energy-consuming appliances should also be documented, such as refrigerators, freezers, stoves/ovens, dishwashers and such. Ceiling fans, lights and other obvious energy users should also be noted. Your energy auditor will be all over your attic and basement/crawl space and should perform an air infiltration test to locate leaks and to give you a baseline by which to measure improvements.

Once the data is gathered and analyzed, either by hand calculations or via computer, the energy auditor can then provide improvement and/or replacement suggestions to the homeowner based on a variety of factors: payback, comfort, health, safety or condition.

What kind of tests can an energy auditor do at your home?

Other than the basic arsenal of tools that energy auditors carry, such as a flashlight, clipboard and camera, the most commonly used testing device is a blower door. A blower door is a calibrated fan mounted inside an expandable cloth and frame that can be placed into a door opening and used to pressurize and/or depressurize a building (see Image Gallery for photos). The energy auditor can either determine manually, or by using a computer, the total amount of air that is entering or leaving a building in relationship to the amount of air pressure being applied by the door. This total amount of air that is moving from inside to outside the building indicates the total number of air leaks, cracks, gaps and missing or defective dampers in the building’s shell or envelope. A blower door can help determine the average air changes per hour, or ACH, of a home. The blower door can also be left running in the “cruise” mode so that the auditor can locate the air leaks using his/her hand, a smoke stick or other device.

The areas of highest pressure, where you will experience the majority of heating and cooling losses, are at the highest and lowest points of your house. Your audit will likely have a lot of focus on your ceiling/attic plane. If you have recessed lighting, plumbing and wiring chases, or flue chases that create holes in this barrier, you will be able to save a lot of money by sealing them up. However, they must be sealed correctly using the correct materials to ensure safety.

At the lowest areas of your home you will find your rim joist (the area where the floor joists sit on top of your foundation wall) may possibly be insulated, but probably not air sealed. Foam board and foam or foam insulation does a great job of air sealing and insulating this area. The basement or crawlspace ceiling is usually riddled with holes and penetrations that can be easily sealed with foam board and foam. Correcting issues at the highest and lowest points of your home will actually lower the rate of air leakage throughout all levels of your home.

When people start learning about energy efficiency, and looking at energy audits, one of the first things people say is that they’re thinking of buying new windows.

People like the idea of installing new windows. They look good and give the house a face-lift and everyone has heard the ads saying that they can save up to 40 percent in energy costs. The key words that most people miss in those ads are “up to.” During an audit people complain that they feel cold and drafts around their windows. Many times this is due to the installation, not the window itself. Windows are fit into holes cut into the wall called “rough openings.” The area around the window is sometimes stuffed with insulation, but very seldom air sealed. So the insulation does little to prevent the cold air from coming in through the opening around the window.

A homeowner can remove the trim around the window and air seal around it using a non-expanding foam or caulk product (they should check with their window company to ensure the product used does not void their window warranty). They can also caulk around the trim, inside and out, to stop the air flow. Curtains help provide comfort as well by blocking radiant energy transfer.

If you have decent windows now, does it pay to replace them? No. They’re not going to pay you back. Double pane windows, or single pane windows that have storms have an average R-Value of 2. Triple pane windows have an average R-Value of 3. The best windows on the market might get up to an R-Value of 7 or more, however they are going to be very expensive. Adding insulation to an uninsulated wall will provide greater benefit (average R-13) over a larger area for less money. If someone wants new windows for the aesthetics, that’s fine. Just don’t assume the energy savings will pay for them.

Is there anything else people should know before scheduling an energy audit?

Take your time and interview potential energy auditors. Make sure they are going to perform safety (combustion and combustible gas) tests as well as energy testing. Make sure you know what equipment they will be using and what you can expect as a result of having the audit performed. Ask them to send you a sample report and ask for references and proof of insurance. Also make sure you are aware of any potential or perceived conflicts of interest such as, are they also in the business of insulating houses or replacing furnaces or windows? You are inviting this person into your home. You should expect a thorough report that meets your needs and you should expect a professional company to help you determine what improvements you need according to your priorities.

Dish Drawer Dishwasher

by Don Ames

Looking For Low Water Usage In Your Tiny Home? Try A Dish Drawer

by A.K. Streeter, treehugger.com

Thus far, the search for energy-efficient, beautiful and small appliances for Graham Hill’s LifeEdited apartment has been, if nothing else, revealing. Manufacturers, while they generally make small models, don’t seem to be giving them the attention to eco-effiiency and maximum functionality that a small space deserves and demands. Fridges and freezers, for example are not generally designed with smart interiors capable of handling a lot of food in a small cubic footprint; few single ovens combine a powerful microwave for efficiency with a full-featured convection oven for browning and baking…and come in smaller sizes. Energy Star, which seems like it should be standard on all appliances and constantly being improved, doesn’t even existent in the oven space. It’s a similar story for small dishwashers.

Energy Star has a dishwasher category, and has made the difference between a good eco dishwasher and a non-eco model easy to understand. Energy Star “compact” models must use less than 4.0 gallons of water for a single cycle. They must also use less than 234 kWh of electricity a year.

That part’s fairly easy. What is harder is size. The average dishwasher is 24 to 30 inches wide, 25 inches deep, and 34″ to 36″ high. Graham was hoping that he could find a dishwasher that is “as small as possible, only 18″ wide and just 20″ deep,” and half the height of a regular model, though the same level of aesthetics that the other appliances should have.

Luckily, in the last few years, drawer dishwashers become popular, and a couple of makers have single drawer models. Meeting that 20″ depth requirement, however, seems next to impossible. Here’s what we found in energy-efficient small dishwasher models.

1. KitchenAid Single Drawer KUDD03STSS

The KitchenAid KUDD03STSS, according to its maker, allows a user to run quite small loads. Lowest water consumption for a small load = 1.8 gallons.

Pros: It is EnergyStar qualified, and costs approximately $19 annually to run. Uses 174 kWh of electricity annually. Holds approximately five place settings.

Cons: Depth is beyond LifeEdited’s requirements.

Price: Around $999.

2. Fisher & Paykel Single Dish Drawer DD24SI6V2

This Fisher Paykel DD24SI6V2 looks similar to the KitchenAid, thought Fisher Paykel claims nearly a decade of engineer research went into getting this dish drawer model to herald in a new era in dishwasher “drawer” ergonomics.

Pros: Three different types of “Eco” wash. Claims to use as little as 2 gallons of water per cycle. Holds up to six place settings. Energy Star qualified – 160 kWh or electricity annually.

Cons: Slightly less sleek than the Kitchen Aid.

Price: Around $700.

3. Bosch SRV53C13UC 18″ Special Application

KitchenAid and Fisher Paykel are the undisputed main contenders in the drawer dishwasher category. Though Smeg has a model, too, it is 36″ wide, and doesn’t boast any eco features. There is another option, though Graham would have to deal with a countertop-to-floor dishwasher. From Bosch, it’s a slim, 18″ model, the Special Application SRX53C15UC.

Pros: The SRX53C15UC accommodates up to 9 place settings, yet uses less than 3 gallons of water per load. Also considered one of the quietest dishwashers.

Cons: Could be the best option to accommodate Graham’s entertaining needs, yet there’s no special eco-friendly provision for his smaller, everyday loads. That bigger capacity means higher energy use, though – 315 kWh annually.

Price: $1,099.

Energy Efficiency Sales Tax Holiday

by Don Ames

Energy efficiency touted for sales tax holiday

by Martha L. Hernández, The Monitor

Replacing a refrigerator manufactured before 1993 with a new ENERGY STAR-qualified refrigerator can save more than $55 a year on your energy bill. People could save even more if they buy it on Memorial Day weekend during the fourth annual ENERGY STAR Sales Tax Holiday, which runs May 28 through 30.

ENERGY STAR-qualified clothes washers use about 30 percent less energy and more than 50 percent less water than regular washers, said Jaclyn Pardini, spokeswoman for Lowe’s Companies Inc. The home improvement retailer is attracting customers this coming weekend but not planning on putting extra discounts on the qualifying appliances, Pardini said. According to the EPA, ENERGY STAR clothes washers also will save about $750 over their lifetime on utility bills compared to non-ENERGY STAR-qualified models.

Refrigerators and washers are not the only tax-exempt products.

The tax break applies to ENERGY STAR-rated air conditioners priced at $6,000 or less, refrigerators priced at $2,000 or less, ceiling fans, compact fluorescent light bulbs, clothes washers, dishwashers, dehumidifiers and programmable thermostats, Texas Comptroller Susan Combs said in a written statement.

Products that qualify for the sales tax exemption will display the ENERGY STAR logo on the appliance, the packaging or the Energy Guide label.

  • >> Air conditioners (at $6,000 or less)
  • >> Refrigerators (at $2,000 or less)
  • >> Dishwashers
  • >> Clothes washers
  • >> Dehumidifiers
  • >> CFL light bulbs
  • >> Ceiling fans
  • >> Programmable thermostats

“Much of Texas is currently suffering from severe drought, and summertime temperatures have arrived early, reminding us of the need to conserve Texas’ precious resources,” Combs said. “You can save water and energy by purchasing efficient, ENERGY STAR appliances. And during the ENERGY STAR Sales Tax Holiday, you won’t pay state or local sales taxes on your new appliances.”

But you can save three times in some of the products that are tax-deductible. On Dec. 17, President Barack Obama signed the Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization, and Job Creation Act of 2010. The new law extends the tax credits for energy-efficient renovations in 2011, including 10 percent — up to $300 — for an energy-efficient air conditioner. For products placed in service in 2011, you need to file the 2011 IRS Form 5695 and submit it with your 2011 taxes — by April 15, 2012.

On the 1040 form the residential energy tax credit (from Form 5695) is claimed on line 52.

More information about the tax holiday is available at www.texaspowerfulsmart.org. For details on ENERGY STAR products, visit www.energystar.gov.

Energy Star Home Performance in Pennsylvania

by Don Ames

HOME PERFORMANCE with ENERGY STAR  in Pennsylvania

Just because you do not live in Pennsylvania does not mean this article is not for you. Learn from this information about weatherization and then go see what your state and your Power Provider has to offer. Weatherization programs and the help they offer are everywhere.  comment by Don Ames

reprint from Pennsylvania Home Energy

Home Performance with ENERGY STAR helps Pennsylvania homeowners save energy & money and improve the comfort of their homes.

  • Do you have high energy bills?
  • Is your heating and cooling system not keeping
  • your home comfortable?
  • Does your home have drafty windows and doors?

Installing replacement windows, a new heating or air conditioning system, or adding more insulation may fix part of the problem. But if you want an energy-efficient home, greater comfort, and lower utility bills, the way to get the best results is with the comprehensive, “whole-house approach” offered by Home Performance with ENERGY STAR.

Benefits of Home Performance with ENERGY STAR

  • Utility bill savings of 20% or more
  • Fewer drafts and more comfortable rooms
  • Work performed by specially trained contractors
  • Third-party quality assurance to make sure work gets done right

A COMPREHENSIVE HOME ENERGY AUDIT

The Home Performance with ENERGY STAR process starts with an interview with you, the homeowner, to help your contractor understand concerns you have about your home’s energy use and comfort.

After the interview, the service provider will evaluate your home to determine where improvements are needed—inspecting your home inside and out, including the heating and cooling equipment, duct systems, and even lighting and appliances. Your service provider will also inspect your attic, basement, or crawlspace (if you have them), and may run diagnostic tests to check the home’s envelope and duct leakage, or use an infrared camera to find the trouble spots.

Your service provider will also review your utility bills to compare them to similar homes in your area and determine how energy is potentially being wasted in your home.

GETTING THE WORK DONE

After the assessment, your service provider will prepare a detailed work proposal outlining recommended improvements and can also show you how they may qualify for special financing or other incentives, where available. Once you decide which improvements to make, your Home Performance service provider will help you get the job done right.

When work is completed, your service provider will run another set of tests to show the difference the improvements have made. Their work is also spot-checked by independent third-parties, so you can have added confidence that your job will be done correctly.

TYPICAL RESULTS

The comprehensive approach offered by Home Performance with ENERGY STAR will make your home more comfortable and energy efficient. Depending on the improvements you choose, you may be able to save 20% or more on your annual utility bill. And because you’re using less energy, you’ll also be helping to protect the environment.

TYPICAL HOME IMPROVEMENTS

Each home’s problems are different, but there are some recommendations that Home Performance service providers frequently make:

  • A. Sealing Air Leaks and Adding Insulation. These are critical first steps to improving the energy efficiency of your home.
  • B. Improving Heating and Cooling Systems. If your furnace or air conditioner is more than 10 years old, your service provider may recommend that you replace it with a unit that has earned the ENERGY STAR label.
  • C. Repairing Ductwork. Sealing leaks, making sure ducts are straight and properly connected, and insulating where needed, will greatly improve your home’s comfort and energy efficiency.
  • D. Replacing Windows. If it’s time to replace your home’s windows, your contractor may recommend ENERGY STAR qualified models specific to your climate.
  • E. Upgrading Lighting, Appliances, and Water Heating Equipment. Energy used in these areas can account for nearly half your utility bill, so there’s a big opportunity to save by installing ENERGY STAR qualified products.
  • F. Installing Renewable Energy Systems. Once energy efficiency improvements have been made to your home, your contractor may recommend additional measures, like installing solar panels or a solar hot water system.

Need help financing your home energy improvement?

Pennsylvania homeowners can improve the energy efficiency of their homes with this fast and convenient financing program for high efficiency heating, air conditioning, insulation, windows, doors, siding, geothermal and solar PV systems as well as “whole house” improvements using Home Performance with ENERGY STAR. Provided by AFC First Financial Corporation, a Pennsylvania lender and principally supported by the Pennsylvania Treasury Department and the Pennsylvania Housing Finance Agency, the Keystone HELP™ program helps make affordable energy efficiency available to all Pennsylvanians.

FIND A SERVICE PROVIDER

Home Performance service providers are equipped with specialized training and diagnostic tools to determine how your home is performing. They can assist you in achieving your goals, whether it’s improving comfort, cutting energy costs, or protecting the environment.

At the website, there is a form to complete that brings you closer to the right contractor in your area.

As I said at the top of the article, this is a pretty good deal if you live in Pennsylvania. Weatherization programs are good for the homeowner, the State, the Power Company, the environment, and the power bill. If you do not live in Pennsylvania, your not exactly out-in-the-cold. If one State or Power Company has a weatherization program, you can bet that others do also. You have heard of keeping up with the Joneses. Well, in some cases, States and Power Companies play the game, My Weatherization Program Is Better Than Yours. Even in weatherization and energy efficiency, a little competition is a good thing.

Thanks for stopping by Detect Energy, please come back soon, but I won’t leave a light on for you…  comment by Don Ames